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Words by Aimee Williams
Synthesizing pared-back Japanese minimalism and French elegance, Pas de Calais’ romantic–casual collections are imbued with a timelessness that can only come from specially crafted pieces – the staples most cherished amidst ever-changing wardrobes. Even though styles change, Pas de Calais pieces will still feel right well into the future. Designer Yukari Suda founded her label in 1998 after graduating from Japan’s Bunka Fashion College, inspired by voyages to coastal Pas-de-Calais in northern France. Sukari captures the region’s seaside grey muted atmosphere in the details of Pas de Calais’ collections. Harmoniously subdued palettes and quiet design touches draw attention to hand-selected fabrics and artisanal finishes. The latest collection ties together traditional dyeing techniques and the label’s refined signature weaves on organic cottons, linens, and silks, showcasing pieces mud-dyed on the breezy island of Amami-Oshima in the Amami archipelago of southwest Japan. Below, Suda gives us a bit of insight into her unique perspective on ready-to-wear, detailing the newest collection’s one-of-a-kind finishes.
“Pas de Calais collections express the color palette of the French Pas-de-Calais region’s greyish sea and sky atmosphere.”
I often have meetings with our weaver. All the fabrics are gradually created by discussing and putting different ideas for each collection together.
“Terroir” is the theme of this collection. The color of the mud-dye seen throughout is the traditional color which has been passed on only in Amami-Oshima in Kagoshima, Japan. The fabric is dyed with the pigment extracted from the “Techi” Evergreen tree in Amami-Oshima, and thereafter soaked in a rice paddy field. Repeating this process results in the beautiful mud-dye color on the garments.
She is strong, independent, and is confident in her life.
Our mud-dye dresses.
Pas de Calais collections express the color palette of the northern French Pas-de-Calais region’s greyish sea and sky atmosphere.